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Lowering spring installation on a '96 240SX
[ Eibach Pro-Kit Springs]

'96 240sx...stock suspension
Stock - Notice the large gap above the front wheel...

Lowered...
Lowered - No more ugly wheel gap...

Front wheel (stock) Front Wheel (lowered)
Stock Front........................................................................................Lowered Front

The gap between the bottom of the fender well and the top of the rim (which is a fixed point relative to the center of the wheel) in the picture above on the left is 6.5 inches. In the right picture, after lowering, the gap is down to 5 inches - a 1.5 inch drop. (The Eibach claims a 1.2inch drop in the front)



Rear wheel (stock) Rear wheel (lowered)
Stock rear............................................................................................Lowered rear

In the back, the original gap was 5.75 inches, and after lowering was 5 inches, just like the front.
This is a drop of only .75 inches (Eibach claims a 1 inch drop)


Overall, the car looks a lot better than before, is still level, and the handling is noticeably improved...

I would definitely recommend these springs to other 240sx owners - mainly because they're high quality and perform well. Not surprisingly, the ride was improved over my stock springs, even with my worn out old struts/shocks(probably because the Eibach's are progressively wound), but they did bounce a lot over speedbumps...

When I replaced my struts with the Tokico Non-Adjustable (Blue) shocks/struts, the ride was even better and the bouncing was cured.



Installation Instructions...

Tools you'll need:

Spring Compressor - Rent one from the auto parts store (Usually itís free, you just leave a deposit)

Deep well sockets - 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm

Open ended wrenchs - 17mm and 19mm (or an adjustable wrench)

Screw driver (To pry the clip off of the brake line where it attaches to the front struts)

Adjustable wrench to use on the spring compressor...

How long will it take?

This was my first time installing springs, and it took just under 4 hours from start to test drive, including cleanup.

Where do I start?

Jack up one end of the car, either front or rear, and support it using jack stands. (I started with the front.)

Remove both wheels, place them aside.

Remove the clip holding the brake line to the strut with a flat-head screwdriver.

Now open the hood and loosen the three 14mm bolt at the top of the strut.
Leave one in place, just finger tight.

Now use your 19mm open end and a 17mm socket to remove the strut-to-spindle bolts...

Once both bolts are completely out, remove the remaining 14mm bolt on top and remove the strut/spring combo.

Make note of the direction of the camber plate, as it must be re-installed in the same direction...
(There is a small indent mark on the side that should face the center of the car when itís put back on)

Now attach the spring compressor - but be careful. You could severely hurt yourself if you donít know what youíre doing

After the spring is compressed enough that there is no longer pressure on the camber plate, remove the 17mm bolt holding the plate to the strut.

Pull the shock boot off the old strut, put it on the new one, followed by the spring, camber plate, and strut bushing.

Attach the spring compressor again, make sure the camber plate is aligned properly, and tighten the 17mm bolt to the correct torque (43-58 ft. lbs. for the S14).

Now place the strut/spring combo back in place, and tighten the three 14mm upper mounting bolts to the correct torque (29-40 ft. lbs. for the S14).

Put the two strut-to-spindle bolts back in, and tighten to the proper torque (90-112 ft. lbs. for the S14).

Do the other side on the front, check your work, put the wheels back on, and step back to see how much better your car now looks.

Now jack up the rear of your car, support it on jack stands, and remove the wheels.

Climb into your back seat, and remove the back dash (itís held in by clips - just pop it up and off)

Remove the two 12mm bolts on top of each strut.

Climb out of the back seat and back under the car to remove the 17mm bolt holding the bottom of the shock.

Pull the shock/spring combo out carefully...
When you pull it off the lower mount, it will de-compress rapidly.

Once again attach the spring compressor (BE CAREFUL), and remove the old spring by removing the 14mm bolt on top of the strut with an open end wrench. DO NOT HOLD THE SHAFT OF THE STRUT (polished part) WITH VISE GRIPS!!!
Use an adj. wrench on the tab on top of the strut to keep it from spinning as you remove the nut.

If you use vise grips on the shaft, it will scratch up the surface, which will tear the o-ring in your shock on the first full compression and cause the shocks to fail!!! (I found this out the hard way...)

Put the old shock boot on the new shock, put your new spring on (use the compressor if needed), put on the strut plate, and tighten the 14mm center bolt (13-17 ft. lbs. on the S14).

Re-install by putting the spring/strut combo back in place, and tighten the upper mounting bolts to the proper torque (12-14 ft. lbs. on the S14).

Now place the bottom of the shock back on its mounting post by pushing up really hard on the bottom of the shock until you can push it over onto the mount. If you canít push it up onto the mount, use another jack to SLOWLY compress the spring and raise it up until it will slide onto the mount (Be sure the wider part of the opening for the bolt faces the outside of the car). Put the 17mm bolt back in and tighten (72-87 ft. lbs for the S14).

Do the other side, check your work, and put the wheels back on.

Take the car for a quick test drive to make sure nothing is loose, and there are no weird noises coming from your suspension - Be amazed at your new handling prowess, but watch out for low driveways and high speed bumps.

Now go get an alignment! Otherwise, youíll wear out the inside of your tires a lot faster than normal.





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